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Amami Oshima Itsuko and Bruce get to try the traditional instrument 'Sanshin'
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What we expected | What we found | Dinner and music | |
The way to the nature preserve | Nature preseve | Beach | |
Amami Park and Tanaka Isson Museum | Community center - structure | ||
Amami Oshima |
Noro Priestesses
AfterAmami Oshima became part of the Ryukyu Kingdom in the latter part of the fifteenth century, the spiritual lives of the island’s communities came to be led by noro, village priestesses who were appointed by the royal government. They acted as religious administrators, responsible for praying to the gods for the community’s prosperity. A museum in the town of Uken displays a certificate from a Ryukyu king appointing a noro to her post in 1594. There are a number of other noro-related items on display, including the white robes worn at ceremonies, cabinets in which religious articles were stored, and colorful fans. The noro used these fans to call and welcome deities, and their illustrations of the mythical fenghuang bird, known in Japanese as ho-o, show how deeply Ryukyuan culture was influenced by China. Talking to the Gods Noro held a prestigious position, although their lives and living conditions were no different from those of other villagers. They could even marry and have children. On ceremonial days, the noro would put on their white robes and communicate with the gods on behalf of their village, aided by their mostly female assistants. The Satsuma domain of southern Kyushu took over the appointment of noro after Amami Oshima and other islands came under its control, but the formal system ceased when the kingdom was abolished in 1879. The noro were so central to village life that their influence continues to be felt at many of the island’s festivals. Older islanders share tales that have been passed down for generations about the awe-inspiring powers of some legendary noro. | ||
The modern high rise hotel where we stayed.
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We flew to Amami Oshima from Kagoshima Airport, took a bus to Naze City where our hotel was. Then went to dinner where they had live 'Shimauta' music. At first they wouldn't let us in saying it was full. After pleading that we came all the way from America, they let us in. It was wonderful, friendly host and guests and homey local food.
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The next day, a guide picked us up to go to Kinsakubara Genseirin (Kinsakubara Primevel Forest). The forest was not permited to enter without a guide to protect the nature reserve. On the way, our guide spotted a habu (poisonous snak) on the road. He caught it and let it go out of the harms way.
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The guide pointed to us many plants and animals unique to the island during our walk.
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After the forest, our guide drove us to a beach for bathroom break. The color of the sea was unbelievably beautiful.
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We asked the guide to drive us to the Amami Park where we were going instead of going back to Naze for a fee. He agreed. The transportation at the island was not very convenient with infrequent buses. At the Park was a community center with local exhibits and Tanaka Isson museum. It happened that they were holing a local folksong competition commemorating the 70th anniversary of returning the Amami Islands back to Japan.
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