Delirious Tokyo. Two weeks; November 2008      
Tokyo Architecture Shitamachi Life Shitamachi Greenway
I (heart) Sunagin Shinjuku Outing The subway
Kamakura Outing Yokohama Rest Stop Fondue Evening
Roppongi Outing Shibuya brief visit "Akiko" without Akido
Danchi Tori no Ichi Festival Ginza at night
Akiko Appears!
Click on any for a larger view
At first observation, Tokyo reveals two basic characteristics: firstly, it apears as a chaotic, cyclonic mass; secondly, it is formed almost entirely of new, or at least recently constructed buildings...As for the second ingredient in Tokyo's character, the newness of its buildings, we must reiterate that it is hard to find any building over 100 years old. This might appear tragic to Europeans-especially to Italians, who are used to associating architectural quality exclusively with buildings from the past..." - Livio Sacchi


1. Tokyo Architecture
"Today Tokyo is one of the great architectural capitals, possibly the most extraordinary capital of contemporary architecture in the world." -Livio Sachhi
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2. Shitamachi Life
Shitamachi Life.
81 _08Nov06-nih08_0040 Surface parking? Forget it!
82 _08Nov06-nih08_1831 Puppy training school.
82 _08Nov06-nih08_1915a Choosing a kototsu
83 _08Nov06-nih08_1916 Refrigerators - many choices
83 _08Nov06-nih08_1916a Refrigerators - more choices
83 _08Nov06-nih08_1918 Vacuums - Many choices, all small.
83 _08Nov08-nih08_1954 Light bulbs, old and new types
85 _08Nov11-nih08_1801 The adjacent building, 7:00 AM, laundry already done and hung.
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116 _08Nov17-nih08_1940 Old guys with honkin' HUGE lenses. The just sit there all day, waiting for a bird to photograph.
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3. Shitamachi Greenway
The Shitamachi Greenway follows the courses of the Edo era canals. Many of the canals are maintained as waterways for the sake of flood control, not navigation. Though seemingly tamed and degraded, they remain habitats for birds, fish and amphibians. These creatures, in turn, provide a lot of interest for the retirees armed with fishing poles and camera equipment.
83 _08Nov07-nih08_1500 Life in the "greenbelt"
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105 _08Nov14-nih08_1925 Kingfisher pair
105 _08Nov14-nih08_1931 Turtles
117 _08Nov17-nih08_1942 A few feet from the path


4. I (heart) Sunagin
The Sunamachi Ginza is an old-style shopping street near Madame Nishizawa's residence. See "Japan 07" for more about this dear place.
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114 _08Nov17-nih08_0331 The tatami craftsman's place - still there!
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5. Shinjuku Outing
About 2 million people per day temporarily inhabit Shinjuku, the greatest commercial AND after-dark recreation center of the city.
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91 _08Nov12-nih08_0438 Akachochin. Wonderful!!
91 _08Nov12-nih08_0510 Akachochin.


6. The subway
The subway. "The stations and their immediate surroundings tend to transmute into extensive multifunctional structures which take up considerable portions of the city with their multiple exits, their large areas for services, shopping and catering, and their collossal walls filled with advertisements. They are 'animated underground labyriths over-filled with goods,' in which 'you feel the city is governed by the laws of economics, where chaos and a complete lack of interest in physical quality or the planning of space go hand in hand with functionality, efficiency, vitality and comfort.'" - Livio Sacchi
91 _08Nov12-nih08_0549 Typical station; evening.
91 _08Nov12-nih08_1638 Morning rush hour. Noriko's feet did not touch the floor due to the body-body pressure.
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7. Kamakura Outing
Kamakura is an very desirable, affluent suburb about 1.5 hours from Tokyo. It's on the sea and is also famous for its Buddha.
91 _08Nov12-nih08_1900a Hiking the hills in Kamakura.
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97 _08Nov12-nih08_1929 Famous mountain. We were really fortunate with the weather!
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98 _08Nov12-nih08_2026 And at the mountaintop! This is hiking, Japanese style. Leave that water bottle and the trail mix at home, silly!
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100 _08Nov12-nih08_2236 Trophy chrysanthramums. Growing these is a popular hobby.
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100 _08Nov12-nih08_2247 Thousand year old ginko, with Shinto garland.
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100 _08Nov13-nih08_0012 The Kamakura Daibutsu. It's sheltering building was lost to a tidal wave around 1450. So this Buddha can be seen like no other.
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8. Yokohama Rest Stop
Yokohama is intense. It is about a hour from Tokyo.
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105 _08Nov13-nih08_0325 A bakery/cafe.


9. Fondue Evening
Several relatives came all the way from Osaka. They were joined by Shizuko and Koichi. I am humbled by this little-deserved attention. Obaachan had a really good time, though.
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105 _08Nov14-nih08_0035a Setsuko Obasan, Yumi, Mariko, Toshiko Obasan, Koichi, Shizuko. Full house.
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10. Roppongi Outing
Roppongi is a spot favored by foreigners and by Nihonjin shoppers alike.
106 _08Nov14-nih08_2030 Galleria in Roppongi.
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108 _08Nov14-nih08_2035 Cooking "school" for shopper/wives
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109 _08Nov14-nih08_2100 Ando!! This is an exhibit hall, adjacent to the Galleria.
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11. Shibuya brief visit
A visit to Tokyo must not omit Shibuya.
109 _08Nov15-nih08_2127 "Spiral" by Maki. A top world classic.
110 _08Nov15-nih08_2130 A brand new building. Do not know its pedigree.
112 _08Nov15-nih08_2143 Toyo Ito
113 _08Nov15-nih08_2255 Ando!! His new Shibuya station, this work a bit underwhelming.
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113 _08Nov15-nih08_2301 The collosal video displays around Shibuya station.
113 _08Nov15-nih08_2310 The streets closed off for a music festival.


12. "Akiko" without Akido
Akiko's family, absent Akikok!
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13. Danchi
"Danchi" is the undignified name for the enormous high-rise multi-family dwellings common all over Tokyo but particularly in Shitamachi. They are more politely called "mansion."
113 _08Nov16-nih08_2356 The huge danchi village
113 _08Nov16-nih08_2356b danchi near Toyocho station


14. Tori no Ichi Festival
The Tori no Ichi festival, Tomioka Hachimingu shrine near Monzen-Nakacho in Shitamachi. People come to buy ceremonial kurade (rakes). When blessed by the priest the rake may be used to "rake up prosperity" as the year concludes. Some of these rakes, as you can see in the booths, are high-end. When you buy one of those, the whole staff gathers for a rousing cheer. We - alas! - did not buy one, and just look at the consequences.
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15. Ginza at night
Ginza brief visit seeking a CD.
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16. Akiko Appears!
Akiko Appears in time!
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