Delirious Japan

Old-style shopping street near Madame Nishizawa's residence. Because there is no shoplifting in Japan, the stores need no doors nor even walls. People do not inhabit a tamper-proof bubble so there are not layers of plastic and security between me and the food. Did I mention the human scale of that narrow street width? In 25 years I have never seen another caucasion in these crowds.

Delirous "culture of congestion" _07Nov02-Nihon1858

The family shop culture is in decline due to big-store competition and disinterest by the young. But it's far from dead. _07Nov02-Nihon1919

At night, too. Step out of the station and pick up delicious dinner on the way home. I wish Americans had this option. _07Nov03-Nihon0156

Bruce rustles up some western-style dinner. These strange Nihonjin relatives really enjoy authentic Swiss fondue.

My niece-in-law is resisting the Japanese population decline by turning out sons. _07Nov03-Nihon0406

A recent architectural wonder by Hiroshi Hara. The scale and the budget are beyond fathoming.

Everyone looks older but genki.

A fabulous location with abundant birds and people

A neighbor's little shrine in the street. _07Nov04-Nihon0040

View of Hashimoto condo from across the river. _07Nov05-Nihon1612

Near the main crossing of Kyoto. This is the narrowest but one of the most delirious restaurant and drinking streets I know. Foreigners, mostly Europeans, ARE aware of this place.

Typical Kyoto amaimono (red bean and other exquisite sweet) shop, where Bruce wishes to go frequently in the afterlife. _07Nov04-Nihon0139

In Kyoto every shop must be exquisite, whether new or traditional fashion. _07Nov04-Nihon0221

Tofukuji, Fushimi-Inari, Uji. These are less visited by tourists, being in a direction opposite the most popular clusters.

Tofukuji. Famed for fall foliage, the maples are late to color this year (global warming.) _07Nov04-Nihon1823

Fushimi Inari Shrine, famed for the tunnel of over 100,000 torii (gates) which step up the mountain. These are "postcard" views but nonetheless a must-see._07Nov04-Nihon1954

"Inari" means fox. Before the shrine, before the Heian period, 1500 years ago, this was "fox mountain." _07Nov04-Nihon2013

Byodoin at Uyi, the "Phoenix pavilion." See this view on your 10 yen coin. _07Nov04-Nihon2252

Uji is also famed for tea. We enjoy the taste of green tea over...

A nice Nihon-style Kyoto restaurant.

Dimensions similar to our Berkeley Center Street. This is reconnaissance for the sake of Berkeleyans who wish a creek in their street.

Streetfront style is unique this district. "Maiko" can readily be seen in the evening.

Renzo Piano. Another recent architectural wonder. If you have not seen it, ...

Ryukyu consists of 190 islands located in a long arc south of Japan. It had a vigorous and properous culture based on trade with China, Japan and all of Southeast Asia. Having no indigineous metal the Ryukyu people never developed war machinery and were spared domnation by their relative isolation. They prospered by their energy and by the bounty of nature. For several hundred years Okinawa Island was the capital of the independent Kingdom of Ryukyu. Shuri Castle was the king's residence and center of goverment. A high level of craft and performance art was fostered by the king and noble families.

But the Ryukus came under control of the Satsuma clan of southern Japan about 200 years ago. The kingdom endured but struggled under this yoke. In 1878 Okinawa was annexed by Japan and the monarchy and the castle were vacated. Okinawa was nearly totally destroyed in the Battle of Okinawa in World War II. Okinawa was annexed by the U.S. after the war. Though the Americans provided aid, there was always racial and cultural tension and zero possibility of affinity. Americans obliterated much of the land with U.S. suburban-style housing developments for the military families. Okinawa reverted to Japan, to the relief of the residents, in 1972. But this did not bring ecnomic recovery.

Okinawa's fortunes have turned for the better since 1990. That marks the beginning of the "Okinawa boom" in Japan which brought accelerated tourism, trade, development and prosperity. It was largely ignited by the re-discovery of Ryukyu style culture sparked by a world-wide explosion of interest in Okinawan music thanks to one local musician. Though Okinawa's forturnes continue to improve, it pays a price. Much of the main island looks like a generic Japanese city. Okinawa prefecture remains the poorest of all Japanese prefectures. The American base remains, smaller than after the war but still with enormous physical and social footprint.

Bombed into rubble during the war, restoration of Shuri Castle is nearing completion after 60 years. _07Nov06-Nihon1839

Even in this off season, a popular tourist spot for Nihonjin. _07Nov06-Nihon1846

The model shows the regimented, hierarchical arrangement of the Chinese delegation during state visits to the palace in medieval times. _07Nov06-Nihon2036

We happened onto this performance at Shuri Castle. The costumes reflect the traditional crafts of Ryukyu.

This path along with a few adjacent 200 year old gajumaru (banyan) trees, survived the bombing.

A relatively recent building of interest to Noriko and I. Architects were commissioned to author an architectural language reflecting Okinawa.

Unadorned, un-curated, un-airconditioned but containing interesting exhibits gradually yielding to the subtropical climate.

A diagram illustrating the traditional Okinwan residence. _07Nov07-Nihon2311

A near-by specimen of a traditional house. _07Nov07-Nihon2257

A short duration visit. This is the ocean shore but there are no waves due to the extensive coral reef. Though it is quite warm there was no one in the water along the 40 mile sweep of beach. Beach bathing is not interesting to the Okinawans.

Heaps of broken coral all along the water's edge. Once one of the top coral reefs on earth, the coral is rapidly declining due to global warming. _07Nov08-Nihon1836

The street is obliged to make way for this old gajumaru tree.

Transit buffs, contact me for explanation of all the equipment you see. Pay when you get off, fare proportional to distance.

This part looks like AnyCity, Japan, until you look closely .

You can easily see traces of the old off the main street. _07Nov07-Nihon0104

It shares second floor with a T-shirt shop. All rooms each floor share one bathroom.

The arcade snakes for blocks. The main attraction is the fish and meat market.

I want to eat it all. _07Nov09-Nihon1745

Yes, those are skinned fugu (blowfish) going home to be someone's dinner. _07Nov09-Nihon1747

These are surely reef fish.Who says the coral reef is dead? _07Nov09-Nihon1748

Those fugu are looking at YOU! _07Nov09-Nihon1749b

This IS a giant clam, still alive. Its page was my favorite of my seashell book when I was 5 years old. I never thought I'd see a real live one. Wonder how they taste?_07Nov09-Nihon1750

Pork is very popular with the natives. Pigs have been indigenous for thousands of years. The Ryukyus were once connect to the mainland. _07Nov09-Nihon1753

The Asian cooperation gene in evidence.

The shrines are always paired. Sunday morning. Shinto wedding proceed one after another like trains.

Note "horn hider", the tranditiona Shinto hood for the bride, removed after the couple is joined. _07Nov10-Nihon1736

A favorite weekend pasttime: dress up, go to shrine, take snapshots of family. _07Nov10-Nihon1739

This rock symbolizes Japan. We didn't get it but I like the Shinto decorations. _07Nov10-Nihon1803

The "god horse." _07Nov10-Nihon1851

These settings yield snaphots that are beauties. _07Nov10-Nihon1853

Kimono-clad litle girls are the most popular subjects. No wonder they get impatient. _07Nov10-Nihon1906

I want to eat everything I see. So does everyone.

Shrines are everywhere, even tucked in the shopping arcade. _07Nov10-Nihon2306

Seeking "Neo Tokyo." Lead me to that "Maid Cafe"! Moooe!

Now THATS a bike parking lot. This is actually a small one.

An exceptionally beautiful Tokyo day.

Red arrow indicates Nishizawa residence, 6th floor. _07Nov12-Nihon1909

Multi-modal transit space. Bicyles and pedestrians on sidewalk, motor vehicles on the street. _07Nov12-Nihon1910

A large heron just above the path, surrounded by city. _07Nov12-Nihon1916

The old canals of Shitamachi now form the greenway. _07Nov12-Nihon1919

The greenway. Bridges and flood control. _07Nov12-Nihon2037

Retirees spend much of their day fishing in this tank. "Catch and release." _07Nov12-Nihon2041

The shortcut to the station. Sakura line the way. _07Nov12-Nihon2239

The beautiful Tokyo nightscape.

Ito building. _07Nov13-Nihon0023

NOT an Ito building. _07Nov13-Nihon0033

Ito building. _07Nov13-Nihon0105

Interior of an Ando shopping mall. _07Nov13-Nihon0137

The Ando mall. _07Nov13-Nihon0137a

THIS IS A PUBLIC TOILET and proud! _07Nov13-Nihon0140

Ojiichan's (Noriko's father) grave. Obaachan and Koichi in background.

The womens' job by tradition. These women weren't so skilled however.

Sunamachi Ginza	The Koichi Family Joins Us	Kyoto Station
Kyoto. Lunch with the Kansai relatives	Kyoto. The Vicinity of Hashimoto "Mans	Kyoto, Pontocho near Shijo.
Kyoto, Temples to the South.	Amaimono at Uji	Dinner with the Tatsushi Family
Kyoto, A creek in mid-street	Kyoto. Gion, the Geisha district, in E	Kansai Airport
Okinawa. Shuri Castle	Okinawa. Traditional Court Dance	Okinawa. Old path from sea to castle
Nago City Hall	Nago Prefectural Museum	Nago, the Beach
Nago, Old Tree	A standard Japanese Bus	Naha, Day and Night.
Naha, Our Hotel	Naha, Market and Arcade.	Naha, Students at the airport.
Kyoto.Shimo Gamo and Kamo Gamo Jinga S	Kyoto, shopping arcade.	Tokyo, Akihabara.
Bicycle parking near Toyocho station.	The Greenway opposite Obaachans apartm	Toyo Ito Buildings.
Tokyo (actually a neighboring prefectu	At Koichis apartment.	Re-papering shoji.
Old Friends.	Want to buy a condo in Kotoku? (Shitam
Click on any for a larger view
Sunamachi Ginza Tokyo. Kotoku (10 min by train from Nihonbashi.) Old-style shopping street near Madame Nishizawa's residence. Because there is no shoplifting in Japan, the stores need no doors nor even walls. People do not inhabit a tamper-proof bubble so there are not layers of plastic and security between me and the food. Did I mention the human scale of that narrow street width? In 25 years I have never seen another caucasion in these crowds.
_07Nov02-Nihon1843	Delirous "culture of congestion" _07Nov02-Nihon1858	The family shop culture is in decline due to big-store competition and disinterest by the young. But it's far from dead. _07Nov02-Nihon1919
_07Nov02-Nihon1921	_07Nov02-Nihon1922	_07Nov02-Nihon1925
_07Nov02-Nihon1925a	At night, too. Step out of the station and pick up delicious dinner on the way home. I wish Americans had this option. _07Nov03-Nihon0156
The Koichi Family Joins Us Bruce rustles up some western-style dinner. These strange Nihonjin relatives really enjoy authentic Swiss fondue.
My niece-in-law is resisting the Japanese population decline by turning out sons. _07Nov03-Nihon0406	_07Nov03-Nihon0406a	_07Nov03-Nihon0407a
Kyoto Station A recent architectural wonder by Hiroshi Hara. The scale and the budget are beyond fathoming.
_07Nov03-Nihon1837	_07Nov03-Nihon1845	_07Nov05-Nihon1907
_07Nov05-Nihon1913	_07Nov05-Nihon1915
Kyoto. Lunch with the Kansai (Osaka region) relatives Everyone looks older but genki.
_07Nov03-Nihon2126	_07Nov03-Nihon2126a	_07Nov03-Nihon2126b
_07Nov03-Nihon2128	_07Nov03-Nihon2131	_07Nov03-Nihon2131a
_07Nov03-Nihon2135	_07Nov03-Nihon2212
Kyoto. The Vicinity of Hashimoto "Mansion" (i.e. condo.) A fabulous location with abundant birds and people
_07Nov03-Nihon2310	_07Nov03-Nihon2310a	A neighbor's little shrine in the street. _07Nov04-Nihon0040
_07Nov04-Nihon0045	View of Hashimoto condo from across the river. _07Nov05-Nihon1612
Kyoto, Pontocho near Shijo. Near the main crossing of Kyoto. This is the narrowest but one of the most delirious restaurant and drinking streets I know. Foreigners, mostly Europeans, ARE aware of this place.
_07Nov04-Nihon0120	_07Nov04-Nihon0120a	Typical Kyoto amaimono (red bean and other exquisite sweet) shop, where Bruce wishes to go frequently in the afterlife. _07Nov04-Nihon0139
_07Nov04-Nihon0140	In Kyoto every shop must be exquisite, whether new or traditional fashion. _07Nov04-Nihon0221	_07Nov04-Nihon0221a
Kyoto, Temples to the South. Tofukuji, Fushimi-Inari, Uji. These are less visited by tourists, being in a direction opposite the most popular clusters.
Tofukuji. Famed for fall foliage, the maples are late to color this year (global warming.) _07Nov04-Nihon1823	_07Nov04-Nihon1831	_07Nov04-Nihon1832
_07Nov04-Nihon1836	_07Nov04-Nihon1842	_07Nov04-Nihon1847
Fushimi Inari Shrine, famed for the tunnel of over 100,000 torii (gates) which step up the mountain. These are "postcard" views but nonetheless a must-see._07Nov04-Nihon1954	_07Nov04-Nihon2012	_07Nov04-Nihon2012a
"Inari" means fox. Before the shrine, before the Heian period, 1500 years ago, this was "fox mountain." _07Nov04-Nihon2013	_07Nov04-Nihon2017	_07Nov04-Nihon2018
_07Nov04-Nihon2030	_07Nov04-Nihon2048	_07Nov04-Nihon2049
Byodoin at Uyi, the "Phoenix pavilion." See this view on your 10 yen coin. _07Nov04-Nihon2252	_07Nov04-Nihon2253	_07Nov04-Nihon2258
Amaimono at Uji Uji is also famed for tea. We enjoy the taste of green tea over...
_07Nov04-Nihon2354
Dinner with the Tatsushi Family A nice Nihon-style Kyoto restaurant.
_07Nov05-Nihon0242	_07Nov05-Nihon0256	_07Nov05-Nihon0257
Kyoto, A creek in mid-street Dimensions similar to our Berkeley Center Street. This is reconnaissance for the sake of Berkeleyans who wish a creek in their street.
_07Nov05-Nihon1536	_07Nov05-Nihon1537	_07Nov05-Nihon1538
_07Nov05-Nihon1538a
Kyoto. Gion, the Geisha district, in Early Morning Streetfront style is unique this district. "Maiko" can readily be seen in the evening.
_07Nov05-Nihon1548	_07Nov05-Nihon1549	_07Nov05-Nihon1551
_07Nov05-Nihon1552	_07Nov05-Nihon1555	_07Nov05-Nihon1557
Kansai Airport Renzo Piano. Another recent architectural wonder. If you have not seen it, ...
_07Nov05-Nihon2211	_07Nov05-Nihon2212	_07Nov05-Nihon2212a
_07Nov05-Nihon2212b
Okinawa. Shuri Castle
Ryukyu consists of 190 islands located in a long arc south of Japan. It had a vigorous and properous culture based on trade with China, Japan and all of Southeast Asia. Having no indigineous metal the Ryukyu people never developed war machinery and were spared domnation by their relative isolation. They prospered by their energy and by the bounty of nature. For several hundred years Okinawa Island was the capital of the independent Kingdom of Ryukyu. Shuri Castle was the king's residence and center of goverment. A high level of craft and performance art was fostered by the king and noble families.	But the Ryukus came under control of the Satsuma clan of southern Japan about 200 years ago. The kingdom endured but struggled under this yoke. In 1878 Okinawa was annexed by Japan and the monarchy and the castle were vacated. Okinawa was nearly totally destroyed in the Battle of Okinawa in World War II. Okinawa was annexed by the U.S. after the war. Though the Americans provided aid, there was always racial and cultural tension and zero possibility of affinity. Americans obliterated much of the land with U.S. suburban-style housing developments for the military families. Okinawa reverted to Japan, to the relief of the residents, in 1972. But this did not bring ecnomic recovery.	Okinawa's fortunes have turned for the better since 1990. That marks the beginning of the "Okinawa boom" in Japan which brought accelerated tourism, trade, development and prosperity. It was largely ignited by the re-discovery of Ryukyu style culture sparked by a world-wide explosion of interest in Okinawan music thanks to one local musician. Though Okinawa's forturnes continue to improve, it pays a price. Much of the main island looks like a generic Japanese city. Okinawa prefecture remains the poorest of all Japanese prefectures. The American base remains, smaller than after the war but still with enormous physical and social footprint.
Bombed into rubble during the war, restoration of Shuri Castle is nearing completion after 60 years. _07Nov06-Nihon1839	_07Nov06-Nihon1841	_07Nov06-Nihon1843
Even in this off season, a popular tourist spot for Nihonjin. _07Nov06-Nihon1846	_07Nov06-Nihon1850	The model shows the regimented, hierarchical arrangement of the Chinese delegation during state visits to the palace in medieval times. _07Nov06-Nihon2036
Okinawa. Traditional Court Dance We happened onto this performance at Shuri Castle. The costumes reflect the traditional crafts of Ryukyu.
_07Nov06-Nihon1915	_07Nov06-Nihon1919	_07Nov06-Nihon1941
_07Nov06-Nihon1956	_07Nov06-Nihon2000
Okinawa. Old path from sea to castle This path along with a few adjacent 200 year old gajumaru (banyan) trees, survived the bombing.
_07Nov06-Nihon2142	_07Nov06-Nihon2143	_07Nov06-Nihon2147
_07Nov06-Nihon2150	_07Nov06-Nihon2156
Nago (a nothern Okinawan city.) City Hall. A relatively recent building of interest to Noriko and I. Architects were commissioned to author an architectural language reflecting Okinawa.
_07Nov07-Nihon2215	_07Nov07-Nihon2218	_07Nov07-Nihon2222
_07Nov07-Nihon2226	_07Nov07-Nihon2232	_07Nov07-Nihon2239
Nago Prefectural Museum Unadorned, un-curated, un-airconditioned but containing interesting exhibits gradually yielding to the subtropical climate.
A diagram illustrating the traditional Okinwan residence. _07Nov07-Nihon2311	A near-by specimen of a traditional house. _07Nov07-Nihon2257
Nago, the Beach A short duration visit. This is the ocean shore but there are no waves due to the extensive coral reef. Though it is quite warm there was no one in the water along the 40 mile sweep of beach. Beach bathing is not interesting to the Okinawans.
_07Nov08-Nihon0128	_07Nov08-Nihon0137	_07Nov08-Nihon1833
Heaps of broken coral all along the water's edge. Once one of the top coral reefs on earth, the coral is rapidly declining due to global warming. _07Nov08-Nihon1836	_07Nov08-Nihon1849	_07Nov08-Nihon1849a
_07Nov08-Nihon1850
Nago, Old Tree The street is obliged to make way for this old gajumaru tree.
_07Nov08-Nihon1957
A standard Japanese Bus Transit buffs, contact me for explanation of all the equipment you see. Pay when you get off, fare proportional to distance.
_07Nov08-Nihon2124
Naha, the capital - Day and Night. This part looks like AnyCity, Japan, until you look closely .
_07Nov08-Nihon2310	_07Nov09-Nihon0440	You can easily see traces of the old off the main street. _07Nov07-Nihon0104
Naha, Our Hotel It shares second floor with a T-shirt shop. All rooms each floor share one bathroom.
_07Nov08-Nihon2309
Naha, Market and Arcade. The arcade snakes for blocks. The main attraction is the fish and meat market.
_07Nov09-Nihon1736	I want to eat it all. _07Nov09-Nihon1745	Yes, those are skinned fugu (blowfish) going home to be someone's dinner. _07Nov09-Nihon1747
These are surely reef fish.Who says the coral reef is dead? _07Nov09-Nihon1748	_07Nov09-Nihon1748a	_07Nov09-Nihon1749
_07Nov09-Nihon1749a	Those fugu are looking at YOU! _07Nov09-Nihon1749b	This IS a giant clam, still alive. Its page was my favorite of my seashell book when I was 5 years old. I never thought I'd see a real live one. Wonder how they taste?_07Nov09-Nihon1750
_07Nov09-Nihon1752	Pork is very popular with the natives. Pigs have been indigenous for thousands of years. The Ryukyus were once connect to the mainland. _07Nov09-Nihon1753
Naha, Students at the airport. The Asian cooperation gene in evidence.
_07Nov09-Nihon1946
Kyoto.Shimo Gamo and Kamo Gamo Jinga Shrines. Sunday morning. The shrines are always paired. Sunday morning. Shinto wedding proceed one after another like trains.
_07Nov10-Nihon1728	_07Nov10-Nihon1731	Note "horn hider", the tranditiona Shinto hood for the bride, removed after the couple is joined. _07Nov10-Nihon1736
_07Nov10-Nihon1737	_07Nov10-Nihon1737a	A favorite weekend pasttime: dress up, go to shrine, take snapshots of family. _07Nov10-Nihon1739
This rock symbolizes Japan. We didn't get it but I like the Shinto decorations. _07Nov10-Nihon1803	_07Nov10-Nihon1804	The "god horse." _07Nov10-Nihon1851
These settings yield snaphots that are beauties. _07Nov10-Nihon1853	_07Nov10-Nihon1901	_07Nov10-Nihon1902
_07Nov10-Nihon1903	Kimono-clad litle girls are the most popular subjects. No wonder they get impatient. _07Nov10-Nihon1906	_07Nov10-Nihon1907
_07Nov10-Nihon1932	_07Nov10-Nihon1935
Kyoto, shopping arcade. I want to eat everything I see. So does everyone.
_07Nov10-Nihon2238	_07Nov10-Nihon2242	_07Nov10-Nihon2244
_07Nov10-Nihon2250	_07Nov10-Nihon2251	_07Nov10-Nihon2254
_07Nov10-Nihon2257	_07Nov10-Nihon2259	_07Nov10-Nihon2301
_07Nov10-Nihon2303	Shrines are everywhere, even tucked in the shopping arcade. _07Nov10-Nihon2306	_07Nov10-Nihon2308
Tokyo, Akihabara. Seeking "Neo Tokyo." Lead me to that "Maid Cafe"! Moooe!
_07Nov13-Nihon1913	_07Nov13-Nihon1922
Bicycle parking near Toyocho station. Now THATS a bike parking lot. This is actually a small one.
_07Nov12-Nihon2254
The Greenway opposite Obaachans apartment. An exceptionally beautiful Tokyo day.
_07Nov12-Nihon1715	Red arrow indicates Nishizawa residence, 6th floor. _07Nov12-Nihon1909	Multi-modal transit space. Bicyles and pedestrians on sidewalk, motor vehicles on the street. _07Nov12-Nihon1910
A large heron just above the path, surrounded by city. _07Nov12-Nihon1916	The old canals of Shitamachi now form the greenway. _07Nov12-Nihon1919	_07Nov12-Nihon1920
_07Nov12-Nihon1922	_07Nov12-Nihon1929	The greenway. Bridges and flood control. _07Nov12-Nihon2037
Retirees spend much of their day fishing in this tank. "Catch and release." _07Nov12-Nihon2041	The shortcut to the station. Sakura line the way. _07Nov12-Nihon2239	_07Nov12-Nihon2241
Toyo Ito Buildings. The beautiful Tokyo nightscape.
Ito building. _07Nov13-Nihon0023	NOT an Ito building. _07Nov13-Nihon0033	Ito building. _07Nov13-Nihon0105
_07Nov13-Nihon0107	_07Nov13-Nihon0109	Interior of an Ando shopping mall. _07Nov13-Nihon0137
The Ando mall. _07Nov13-Nihon0137a	THIS IS A PUBLIC TOILET and proud! _07Nov13-Nihon0140
Tokyo (actually a neighboring prefecture) Ojiichan's (Noriko's father) grave. Obaachan and Koichi in background.
_07Nov12-Nihon0019
At Koichis apartment. Akiko and kids.
_07Nov12-Nihon0451a	_07Nov12-Nihon0452	_07Nov12-Nihon0455
_07Nov12-Nihon0512
Re-papering shoji. The womens' job by tradition. These women weren't so skilled however.
_07Nov12-Nihon2218	_07Nov12-Nihon2218a	_07Nov12-Nihon2218b
Old Friends. Tanoshii.
_07Nov13-Nihon0351	_07Nov13-Nihon0351a	_07Nov13-Nihon0552
Want to buy a condo in Kotoku? (Shitamachi) Only $285,000.
_07Nov11-Nihon1815	_07Nov11-Nihon1815a	_07Nov11-Nihon1910